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177.46 USD (28,289 JPY)
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Product detail
Type 3
No fender
●Bracket (body) made of A7075 (White anodized/Black anodized) Left/Right set
●Raising collar made of A2017 (White anodized/Black anodized) Front/Rear 2 types, Total 4 pcs
●Trial bike universal stabilizer brace (Bridge part, White/Black 2 colors) 1 pc
●Connection bolts x 8
●4 sets of fender securing bolts and nuts (All Chromoly steel, trivalent white plating or trivalent black plating)
**The structure uses bolts that are as long as possible to avoid stress concentration, and provides rigidity even when lightly tightened so that the bracket and bolts do not distort and bite into the fork outer pipe.The split tightening section is 5 N・m.If the bracket is tightened too strongly, the outer pipe distorts quite easily, impairing suspension movement and further damaging the internal metal bushings and oil seals.Do not tighten the bracket section containing these parts too tightly.This area was not originally designed to be tightened.It will break if overtightened.High-rigidity Chromoly steel (strength class 10.9) flanged (large seating surface) half-threaded bolts are used to reduce the tightening torque of the pinch bolts.
*The image may include other products.
*There may be changes in product specifications due to the manufacturer's reasons.
.
●Two types of black anodized body have been added.
When installed, the rigidity of the front area is dramatically increased.
It makes it easy to place the front tire on your intended line, and remains stable and precise even when steering through high-speed corners, braking downhill, or riding on high-grip surfaces and rocky terrain, tracking exactly where you aim it.
It is responsive and easy to correct even on general roads, winding roads, highways, forest roads, in mountains, and in races.
The stability on highways is well received.
It is safe and secure.
It excels in trials-style riding, steep descents, and rough terrain, giving you the confidence to push on.(Initially, I made this for myself for this purpose.)
●Type 1 and Type 2 were sold as a lowered fender set.
However, many users told us the following:
Since it is installed with the stock high fender, the fender itself is not needed.
We only want increased rigidity, so we just need the brace.
We already have a trials fender.
We use it for racing, so we want to mount it on a high fender that won’t clog with mud.
Therefore, we redesigned the lowered fender as a separate set.
Since the brace (bridge part) is a general-purpose product for trial bikes, general trial bike fenders (4-point fastening) can be installed.
Type 1 and Type 2 (lowered fender set) and current Type 3 have different dimensions for each part, so the brace part cannot be used together.
Some people put low fenders on the stock fender or cut off the front of the low fenders.
●This brace can also be equipped with the processed stock fender 2 for Serow 250, which is effective for preventing mud splashes and water splashes.
●Image description and installation method
1. New version body (including raising collar) black anodized type.
2. Brace / white and black.
We planned to include titanium color in the lineup, but since most of the items purchased from overseas were intermediate colors between white (silver) and titanium, we will treat all white, intermediate, and titanium colors as white.
The white brace type has white bolts for the fender securing bolts.
Black bolts are included with the black brace.
3. From this lot, the cat mark is laser engraved instead of a sticker.
It won't come off even if you fall.
4.5. Brace installed state on stock high fender (Body/Brace part white).
The gap between the tire and the brace is about this much even with the thick Dunlop D803GP.
Since it is an arched brace, the raising collar and bolt are low (short), and it is difficult to interfere with the lower part of the high fender even at full stroke.
Even if the body itself is strong, overall rigidity will be reduced if the collar is too long or too thin, if the collar bore is oversized, or if the bolt is weak.
Since it is an arched brace, the clearance is large and it is difficult to clog even in muddy races.
If the high fender side part and the upper part of the brace interfere, please cut the fender.
6.7. Fit the bracket according to the groove of the front fork outer.
8. Temporarily tighten the left and right brackets.
The front and rear gaps will be about 5mm after final tightening.
There are LR (Left/Right) F (Front) markings.
There is no difference between left and right, but the cat mark is set to the right.
A small amount of "red" WAKO'S grease is applied to the threaded holes to prevent galling during assembly.
9. The lengths of the height adjustment collar bolts are: front collar 25mm, front bolt 45mm, rear collar 22mm, rear bolt 40mm.
10.11. Please secure the fork boots or skins to the slight straight section at the top of the bracket with zip ties.
You may also use your own metal bands.
12. Tighten the 8 bolts securing the bracket and brace to a position where twisting does not occur.
13.14 Tightening torque is 5.0 N-m for the bracket horizontal pinch bolts and 8.0 N-m for the vertical bolts securing the brace.
15. When using the lowered fender, please secure the brace and fender with the included M5 bolts and nuts in advance.
The 4 holes for fender securing on the brace are originally slightly less than 5mm (4.8mm) holes for riveting, but generally, they are secured with M5 bolts.
If you screw it in as it is, it may be a little hard, but it will go in while grinding.
Screw it in.
14-22. Lowered fender specification.
If you prefer the lowered fender recommended for trials, etc., please purchase a front lowered fender or a general trial bike fender (4-point fastening type) at a trial shop.
17. Although I think there is sufficient clearance, if you increase the height too much due to concerns about mud clogging, and if the front fork inner projection is increased, the top of the brace will hit the back of the steering stem under bracket at full stroke.
If you race or ride in muddy areas frequently, please use the high fender specification.
23.24. For high fender, you can also install the modified stock fender 2 for SEROW 250 (KITA-DF-4-1), which is effective in preventing mud splashes and water splashes when riding in the rain.
(23. Image is SEROW 250)
●Before securing the brace, hold the front wheel strongly between your legs from the front of the bike and pry the handlebars.
Easy to twist.
After fastening, it does not move at all.
Please refer to the video.
If it twists like this, it is unsafe.
●Structurally, SEROW 225/250, Tricker, and XT250X clearly lack rigidity around the front.
The axle shaft is only 15 mm in diameter, and the shaft ends are secured by simple tightening rather than a pinch-clamp design that grips the shaft. The steering assembly is also relatively lightly built.
The timing may not match when switching back and forth on tight winding roads, the handlebars may wobble at high speeds, or the handlebars can be easily deflected.
For my own SEROW 225, I have tried various methods to increase rigidity even a little, such as tightening the axle shaft beyond the specified torque, connecting the left and right outer tubes with aluminum plates, and attaching braces that were once on the market.
I felt like I couldn't get on the intended line, felt scared due to twisting, or felt the ground was far away, like riding a trial bike downhill.
With this rugged brace, satisfactory rigidity was achieved even for trial riding.
I think you will understand if you use it.
Points of Attention
* If there may be an instruction manual included, it will be written in Japanese.