Indicator Stabilizer

I bought this car as part of my so-called "Led" conversion of my old car.
Because the symptom of the Hazard state comes out, I built it to Wiring as Instruction Manual. In addition, I did not use the interrupting tap, and corresponded by some wiring processing for the maintenance and safety afterwards.
As a result, the Hazard condition has been improved and the energy saving has been visibly improved.
It is a useful product, but on the other hand, it is expensive for those who can make it by themselves. Moreover, the construction is weak for the price, and it is likely to be torn off soon when using it with a load. The one made by the other company which I bought in the past had better construction.
Nevertheless, it is not a problem at all functionally, and because it is troublesome to make it by oneself, I think that it is possible to buy a ready-made product.

This is actually the second time I've bought this product.
Since I upgraded the Ural FI to KEIHIN Injector with 2nd generation CenterCPU, the 6V MONKEY/GORILLA Main Harness has been replaced and removed, so I bought it again.

In the first generation of Ural Sidecar FI, all the indicators on the back of the meter are 250 Fasten terminals, so you don't have to beat the Harness, you can replace it if you have 250 Fasten terminals and Fasten terminal covers etc.
Fasten Terminal Cover was also difficult to procure, but ω

Basically, all you have to do is to build it like the Manual, but it's good that you don't cut the Harness or use the Electro Tap, which is called the Thief Tap.
It's a source of bad contact, and if you can't turn it back to its original state in case of an emergency, or if someone else sees it, it's so depressing that it can't be helped.

It is recommended that you at least modify the Bullet Terminal or Connector and install it in SMART.
If you buy a better one from Electrical Engineering Pliers, you'll be half as bad at Wiring work.
Ateksi, who was not good at electronics, says so;

And if you use the Switch box with the hazard switch, the Ural without the hazard switch can also be made into a hazard switch!

If you're not good at it, you can use it for whatever you want.

If you're a guy who can build DiamondGram in your head, all you need is a cheap Diode and you don't have to buy this oneω
Actually, Manual is worth it because ………

Motivation
2003 XR250MOTARD with Unbreakable lensBlinker+ The change to LED bulbs has resulted in an LED compatible POSH Faith Wide Watt Blinker Position Relay is installed, because the indicator light of 1 light system does not light up I did

[Mounting]
I examined the instructions and how to connect them with a Net search, and cut the IndicatorWiring I connected it, but it did not respond at all In the end, since it did not respond even with the one-touch coupler that came with the Wiring process I installed the Bullet Terminal and tried to challenge it again, but there was a response No, there was nothing wrong with the ball of the Indicator

[Others]
To begin with, the manual states that the Blinker and Indicator are in a Hazardous state due to the synchronization the use of this product is to be used when there is a malfunction of etc., and the use of this product is not recommended for an indicator that is not responding at all It seemed to be impossible

GRASS TRACKER is a SingleIndicator so you need a Stabilizer.
I thought whether I should make it my own but I bought it because it was troublesome. The enclosed instruction manual was easy to understand.

CBR 250 RR earlier, POSHPosh : Buy with Wide watt blinker relay.

Although it was said that there might be necessary cases, it was unnecessary in this exchange.
If you buy it afterwards, it is troublesome so I bought it.